A new book tracks the brewery’s rise from Clybourn Avenue to an Anheuser-owned
conglomerate.
Big Beer versus small craft. Global versus local. Commerce
versus creativity. Chicago
versus the world. It’s all at stake in Tribune columnist Noel’s meticulously
reported tome, which tracks how little Goose Island
got in bed with A-B’s Goliath, sparking a war of ideas in the beer business
that has raged since. Chief among its conflicts: What does it mean to be a
craft beer? Where is the line of authenticity? Are you a Chicago
brewery if most of your beer is made in New York
and Colorado ,
like Goose’s is today? And do consumers even care?
If you’ve got a stake in these questions, Noel’s book is
required reading. (And if beer is nothing more to you than a commodity on a
grocery shelf, well, the converse is true.) Noel spends Part One of the book
taking a loving look at the roots of American craft brewing. He rehashes
Goose’s late-’80s origin story—including a now-apocryphal tale in which founder
John Hall, then an exec at a cardboard box company, is inspired to start a
brewery by a story in a Delta inflight magazine—right down to the stench of
burning tires that accompanied the first batch of Bourbon County Stout.
Those passionate about craft beer will love Noel’s
sepia-tinged account of a time when IPAs and stouts, bitters and Belgian
tripels, were nothing more than cute anomalies in a world dominated by light,
fizzy lager. Noel susses out wonderful details of Goose Island’s infancy, like
Hall modeling its first brewpub after TGI Friday’s and the departure of the
company’s first brewer (forebodingly, due to Budweiser being sold from a Goose
Island stand at a street festival).
Noel also finds that even from the beginning, Hall
envisioned a day when he’d sell Goose
Island ; he just figured
Heineken’s name would be on the check. Part One of the book comes to a natural
end on the morning of March 28, 2011, when Hall tells a room of furious
employees that he’s sold their beloved microbrewery.
In Part Two, Noel pulls back the curtain on Anheuser-Busch,
focusing on how the Saint Louis
conglomerate became one of the largest companies in the world. Among their
tactics: corporate consolidation, cost-cutting, bullying beer distributors, and
buying a slew of craft breweries between 2013 and 2017, including Seattle’s Elysian,
Colorado’s Breckenridge, L.A.’s Golden Road, Asheville’s Wicked Weed. The lot
of them signed up, sold out, and endured varying degrees of retribution from
the craft community.
Little Goose
Island endures a
nightmare along the way. As A-B chews through new and bigger craft
acquisitions, the newly corporate Goose
Island makes mistake after mistake,
getting pilloried for each misstep (Google “Goose Island
sellout” and you’ll get 70,000 results). A-B’S big-beer tactics fail miserably
in the craft beer market. The company rolls out 312 Urban Wheat nationally
behind Hall’s back; uninspired spinoffs like Urban Pale Ale tank; top-down
recipe rollout leads to boring brews, like the quickly discarded Ten Hills IPA.
In the lowest point, a bad batch of Bourbon County Stout costs the company more
than a half a million dollars.
The tale even has a tragic figure: Greg Hall, son of founder
John, a world-changing brewer and pioneer of barrel-aging beer. By the book’s
end, he’s quit Goose, moved to Michigan
to make cider, and lost 51% of his business to A-B for a sum of zero dollars
(not before drunkenly pissing in a few corporate beer glasses at a party
shortly after the sale). As Noel reports, A-B guaranteed $7 million in debt to
Virtue Cider, Hall’s company, to take a majority stake in Goose in 2015. It’s
now wholly owned by A-B.
All told, Noel’s is a shockingly honest book about an
industry where actual journalism is rare—especially given the beverage
business’s $350 billion economic footprint. Noel tells Goose Island ’s
story through the receipts, the sales numbers, the emails, and the time-stamped
text messages, delivering what is, in retrospect, a clear look at big beer’s
bungled first attempt to take over craft brewing.
Most beer writing today extends to rehashing press releases
and gushing over the latest beer fest; that an objective, warts-and-all
retelling of a beer-business tale exists at all warms my heart. Anecdotes as
simple as an employee pitching a Goose-branded cell phone case into the trash
on the day of the sale speak to the heart of Noel’s book. He covers tons of
ground, but keeps enough of an eye on the humanity of Goose’s story that his
book is more than a novel-length business study.
That’s definitely a ways off. But when it happens, you won’t
have to be a craft beer purist to appreciate that it all started from a little
pub on Clybourn Avenue .
by Karl Klockars
Original Article
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